Cork Pops

Wine Decanters

Decanting does two things. It gets a young wine in contact with air, which softens the tannin and opens up aromas that were shut in the bottle; and on an older wine it leaves the sediment behind in the bottle instead of in the last glass.

The shape decides how much air the wine gets. The Venice captain's decanter has the wide, flat base first made for a ship's table, which gives the wine the most surface area. The Verona is taller and narrower, with a twist through the body and a wrapped handle, for a table where space is tight. The Milan is the modern one, a free-form shape that looks different from every side. All three are $38. In a hurry? An aerator does the job as you pour.

Questions

Do you need a decanter if you have an aerator?

Not for a young wine you are drinking tonight: an aerator opens it up as you pour. A decanter is still the better tool for an older bottle with sediment, and for serving a whole bottle at the table.

Which decanter shape aerates most?

The wider the base, the more of the wine meets the air. The captain's decanter aerates the most; the upright Verona takes the least room on the table.